More on Oxford Shirts . . . # 3 in shirt series

TEARS IN ONE DIRECTION OF COLORED SHIRTS

WHAT IS THE PROBLEM?
The problem arises when the colored yarn-in mainly oxford cloth shirts-tears in one direction prematurely during
the laundering process.

WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE?
The damage appears as thin horizontal tears. Close examination reveals that the damage is confined to only certain sets of the colored yarns while other-such as the white yarns-remain unaffected.

WHAT CAUSED IT?
Many of the dyes used in these shirts are fiber-reactive dyes. Laboratory testing has shown that under conditions
of low pH (standard souring) in the rinse formula after washing, as well as combined with the high temperatures
of commercial finishing, the reactive dyed yarns generate acid ions. This unusual chemical reaction causes rapid
degradation of the colored yarns. Therefore, these yarns cannot withstand commercial wash formulas where the
final rinse sours the fabric down to a low pH of below 6.5.

CAN IT BE PREVENTED?
The life expectancy of these shirts can be significantly increased by a commercial wash formula where the shirt
fabric at the cycle end is approximately 6.5 or slightly above. This can be achieved by increasing rinsing and/or
decreasing the amount of sour used in the rinse. Furthermore, buffered sours are available today that, when
properly used, will prevent rapid degradation of these reactive dyed yarns.

WHO IS RESPONSIBLE?
When these shirts have been properly laundered by following the aforementioned guidelines and they still tear in
a relatively short period of time, then the manufacture must be held responsible for some misprocessing in yarn
production. However, if launderers have not modified their formula to insure the proper pH of the fabric prior to
pressing, then they would be responsible for the early fabric damage. Shirts that are well into or past their expected
life cycle will show this damage eventually under even the most careful wash procedure; thus no responsibility for
damage can be assessed in this case.

IS THERE A REMEDY?
Once the tear begins, there is no acceptable repair or restoration method to reverse future damage that will progressively increase in severity.